A Perfect Stay in Porto - Design Lover’s Guide
We visited Porto for the first time late last September and, after Venice, it’s my new favourite city. Definitely the unsung hero of Europe. It’s laid-back, arty and so pretty - lots of interior design inspiration here!
The city is located in northern Portugal, with its colourful houses and rambling streets stretching down to the Douro river which continues on to Porto’s coast. As one of Europe’s oldest cities, it is steeped in history, from the medieval churches to the art nouveau architecture, art deco buildings and azulejos (hand-painted tiles). It’s also the birthplace of port wine. Part of Porto’s charm is that it embraces its imperfections, taking pride in its weather-beaten buildings with their crumbling facades. It’s not a bit pretentious.
Since it was chosen as the European capital of culture in 2001, Porto has evolved into a thriving hub for artistic expression. It has seen a surge in cultural initiatives, restoration projects, and urban regeneration efforts that have breathed new life into its artistic landscape. From the establishment of contemporary art galleries and cultural centres to the proliferation of street art and public installations, Porto has embraced creativity in all its forms.
Porto is split into several neighbourhoods. We spent most of our three days in Ribeira and Aliados & Bolhao but also ventured out to some of the other areas. It’s the perfect city for a three day break - big enough to keep you busy but small enough for most of it to be walkable. I’ve listed below the different areas that we visited, with things to do and places to eat/drink in each one, plus a recommendation on where to stay.
Ribeira & Sé
The Porto of postcards, these neighbourhoods are full of historic charm. Pastel houses and cobblestone streets lead up to the cathedral (the Sé), and down to the pretty riverside (Cais da Ribeira).
Places to visit:
Rua das Flores
Cais da Ribeira
Ponte de Dom Luís I
The Sé
Rua das Flores
One of my favourite streets, Rua das Flores (literally meaning ‘Flower Street’) is a bustling area running right through the heart of Porto. Full of little shops, hotels and cafes, it’s a lovely place to sit with a glass of wine (or port) and watch the world go by. A lot of the buildings are covered with azulejos and many of the balconies are decorated with flowers.
Cais da Ribeira
A Unesco world heritage site, the riverside promenade is a short walk from Rua das Flores. It has a fantastic up-beat energy, with lots of little cafes and tascas (taverns) stretching along it. Buskers add to the atmosphere in the late afternoons and evenings - the perfect place to stop for a drink.
The Sé
Building started on the city’s cathedral in the 12th century but it’s been added to over the years. You have to walk up quite a big hill to get to it and I didn’t take any pictures of it from the top because I was too preoccupied with the lovely views! But you can see it from a distance in the first photo here. The quaint little apartments that you pass on the way up are so typically Porto.
Eat and drink
Guidalense Futebol Clube - We happened upon this lovely bar on one of the steep, narrow streets leading up from Ribeira to where we were staying in Bolhao. I was very glad of the rest after all the steps we’d walked up (did I mention this city is quite hilly?!). We had a glass of port while taking in the stunning views of Ponte de Dom Luís I. This is Porto’s most famous bridge, completed in 1886 and designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel.
OrpheH - A fantastic tapas restaurant and bar - definitely our favourite eatery. It has a laid back atmosphere, friendly staff, tasty food and lovely cocktails. It’s open between 2pm and 10pm but closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
My Ribeira Cafe - Lovely light lunches and snacks, as well as cakes and local wines
Wine Quay Bar - This lovely bar has a terrace with a great view of the Douro and the Ponte de Dom Luís I. It has a great selection of Portuguese wines and also serves tapas dishes.
Aliados & Bolhao
The town hall on Avenida Dos Aliados
Although the azulejos appear in many of Porto’s neighbourhoods, this is one of the best areas to see the most impressive examples on its historic buildings.
Places to visit
Capela das Almas
Igreja de Santo Ildefonso
Sao Bento train station
Bolhao Market
A Perola de Bolhao
Livraria Lello
Capela das Almas
Built in the late 18th century, the tiles were added to this chapel in 1929 and they continue through to the interior. It's situated on Rua de Santa Catarina, one of Porto's main shopping streets.
Igreja de Santo Ildefonso
This baroque church is another 18th century building and is covered with 11,000 azulejos.
Sao Bento train station
São Bento Train Station is well known for its stunning azulejos depicting historic and cultural scenes.
Bolhao Market
The historic market reopened in 2022 after undergoing a major restoration programme. It sells all sorts of produce including flowers, meat, fish, fruit, vegetables, cheese and wine. Lovely for a wander.
A Perola do Bolhao
This delicatessen is a perfect example of art nouveau architecture!
Livraria Lello
A neo-Gothic bookshop that inspired J.K. Rowling’s Flourish and Blott’s in the Harry Potter series. There’s an entrance fee of 8 euros.
Eat and drink
Cúmplice Steakhouse and Bar - a lovely restaurant located near our apartment in Bolhao. It’s quite pricey but worth a visit if you want to treat yourselves.
Casa Guedes - A lovely tasca (tavern) serving delicious pork sandwiches and soups.
Maria Limão Lovemade - a little cafe serving all-day brunches, located round the corner from where we stayed.
Abadia do Porto - Traditional Portuguese cuisine with a modern twist, this restaurant has a cosy atmosphere and friendly staff.
Foz do Douro
Perfect for beach lovers, Foz is the coastal area of Porto (this city really does have it all!) As Porto's westernmost neighbourhood, it's about 7km from the Ribeira region so we used public transport to get there. We waited ages for a bus from the city centre and when it finally arrived, it was boiling hot and overcrowded. On the way back, we used the Bolt app (similar to Uber), stopping off at Serralves on the way. It worked out about the same price as the bus so I’d definitely recommend taxis.
Places to visit:
Serralves
Farol Senhora da Luz
Jardim do Passeio Alegre
Serralves
Designed by architect, Álvaro Siza Vieira, and built between 1925 and 1941, this salmon pink villa is an art deco masterpiece. Definitely the highlight of the trip for me and one crossed off the bucket list.
The surrounding gardens, designed by renowned landscape architect Jacques Gréber, are so lovely with winding paths and interesting sculptures.
The interior architecture is also impressive and there’s a fantastic contemporary art gallery, including a Joan Miro exhibition.
Farol Senhora da Luz
Built in 1758, Porto’s iconic lighthouse is now a protected building and offers picturesque views of the coastline.
Jardim do Passeio Alegre
A picturesque garden with fountains and sculptures, boasting river and seaside views.
Eat and drink
Praia da Luz - absolutely beautiful location for wine and cocktails, overlooking the Atlantic ocean.
Vila Nova de Gaia
This area is on the opposite side of the river to Ribeira so it has some fantastic views of the city and the Douro. You can reach it by walking over the Ponte de Dom Luís I bridge or take the metro or river taxi. We stopped off here on the way back from Serralves. In the 17th century, British merchants started port-wine production and many of their grand lodges are located in this neighbourhood, making it one of the best areas for port tasting tours.
Places to visit:
Jardim do Morro
Taylor’s Port Tasting
Jardim do Morro
With stunning views of the river and the pastel coloured houses of the Ribeira, these palm-lined gardens are a great place to sit and watch the sunset.
Taylor’s
Taylor’s port wine cellars are British-run and they have beautiful views of the city. Their audio guide tours cost 20 euros and include tastings of two of Taylor’s iconic port wines.
Eat and drink
Yeatman - We treated ourselves to drinks at the famous Yeatman hotel. It’s not cheap but, with its fantastic river views, it’s an amazing place to watch the sun set over the city.
Taberna do São Pedro - A lovely laid-back restaurant and a great option for traditional Portguese dishes.
Massarelos
Rua de Miguel Bombarda
Some of my clients recommended that I visited this street after I admired some abstract paintings that they’d bought here. On the outskirts of the Massarelos neighbourhood, this is the main art district of Porto so it's a must-see for art lovers. It’s a vibrant cultural hub, renowned for its eclectic mix of contemporary art galleries, quirky boutiques, unique cafés and street art. Many artistic events and gallery openings take place here.
Jardins do Palacio de Cristal (Crystal Palace Gardens)
These gardens were designed in the 19th century and surround the Crystal Palace. They are beautifully segmented into various themes, including formal topiary, a romantic rose garden, and a forested area with peacocks and other wildlife roaming freely. The pathways winding through the gardens lead to charming nooks, scenic lookouts, and even a small chapel, making it a beautiful escape in the heart of the city.
Places to eat
Monarca - Just off Rua de Miguel Bombarda, this is a lovely cafe serving brunch, drinks and tapas.
Other areas
There were a couple of places on my list that we didn’t quite make it to:
Casa da Música (Boavista neighbourhood) - Home to the Porto National Orchestra, this contemporary concert hall is famous for its bold architecture and fantastic acoustics, hosting a diverse range of musical performances and cultural events.
Centro Portugues de Fotografia (Miragaia neighbourhood) - Housed in a former prison building in the city’s Jewish Quarter, this centre is dedicated to preserving and promoting the art of photography through exhibitions, workshops and archival collections.
Where we stayed
We stayed in ‘The Charming’ - a one bedroom AirBnb apartment opposite the Marquês de Oliveira gardens in Poveiros, on the outskirts of Bolhao. It's in an ideal location - within easy walking distance of the main attractions, without being too close to the hustle and bustle. It’s managed by Lovely Memories who have many other beautiful properties across Porto.
The decor is beautiful - calming and warm with lots of rattan and boucle textures for a boho feel. There’s a large open plan kitchen-living space with south-facing balconies off the bedroom and living room. We absolutely loved our stay here and I can’t recommend it highly enough.
Final 2 images courtesy of Lovely Memories
So that’s my review of Porto! Honestly one of the best places I've ever visited. The perfect European city for a short break if you’re looking for beautiful views, historic architecture and great food. I hope you’ve found it useful if you’re planning on going. I don’t always like to go back to the same place but I’ll definitely be returning here. Let me know in the comments if you have any of your own tips or recommendations!
If you’ve enjoyed this post, take a look at my design lover’s guide to Alicante.
